The Final Alaska Motorcycle Post

It has been an epic journey, covering 9,000 miles over the course of a month. I met incredible people along the way to the Arctic Ocean, received all forms of kindness, and drove more hours in the rain than I hope to ever again. After riding the familiar twisties of Highway 1 and crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, I was greeted by Katie holding a welcome home sign in front of the garage. It is hard to summarize the trip in words, and so I am closing with 20 pictures.

Thanks everyone for following.

Day 26: The Lost Coast (175miles Prairie Creek Redwood State Park to Sinkyone Wilderness State Park 09-Sep-13)

The Lost Coast is a magic stretch of the Pacific where Highway 1/101 cuts in from the coast and a network of small paved and dirt roads remain faithful to the ocean. The route starts in Ferndale, just south of Eureka, and goes through Honey Dew, a tiny town with only a general store, and Shelter Cove, a great place for fresh fish and chips.

It could not have been better riding conditions. The temperature was between 70-95F depending on whether you were on the coast or one ridge inland. Usal road is the dirt section, and I only saw 3 adventure motorcycles and a fire crew putting out a small brush fire.

I drove the road once before and had my eye on the remote beach that is 6 miles from the southern end. I decided to return, and spend an extra day relaxing at the beach as a perfect way to spend the penultimate 2 days of the trip.

In the evening, I met Berhard and Michelle Leitner and their dog Atlas, who are traveling in a 6 wheel, Austrian Pinzgauer. He designed and built the offroad trailer himself, which is an absolute work of art with every conceivable amenity. They were extremely kind and invited me to a pork chop, broccoli, and quinoa feast.
While reading on the beach the next day, entertainment arrived in the form of a Subaru Outback that foolishly attempted to drive in the deep sand and needed to be pulled out by Berhard’s Pinzgauer and later a VW van that met the same fate. I also had a fascinating conversation with Bob, who metal detects and filled me in on the history of the spot as a large logging settlement in the late 1800s.

The start of Usal road. Note 12 cans of 21st Amendment beer strapped to top

The first ruts are the ones that I dropped my bike in when it was muddy the prior trip

Berhard’s Pinzgauer and home built trailer

The Beach

The campsite

Day 25: Reunited with the Pacific (270 miles, Eugene to Prairie Creek Redwood State Park 08-Sep-13)

Greeted by the smell of the Pacific and the company of redwood trees.

Day 24: Fresh Picked Rainbows for Sale (Eugene, 07-Sep-13)

Who would have thought you could sell a rainbow and how do you ensure they are picked fresh? Dreams and unicorns are next.

Also I had to buy an Etch-A-Sketch for $1. They are beyond awesome and I used to give them to analysts at work when they asked for a second computer monitor.

Thank you Eberlys for a great time in Eugene.

Day 21: Fresh Caught Fish for Dinner (Horse Lake, BC 04-Sep-13)

Having been on the move every day but one, I wanted to spend two nights in a few places to relax on the return home. I really liked Horse Lake, near 100 Mile House, and so came back. The day was spent drying out my gear, sitting in the sun, reading a book, and chatting with people.

I was chatting with Doug, who used to work in a Canadian prison and has his cat Thom on a leash, when Rick came by and asked if we wanted two 2lb Lake Trout. We cleaned them and cooked them with lemon and onion over the fire, drank beer, and watched the stars. What a phenomenal way to spend my last night in Canada. Thank you Rick and Doug.

Day 19: The Much Awaited Sun (Liard River Hot Springs, Yukon, to Hudson’s Hope, BC 02-Sep-13)

After 6 straight days of riding most of the day in the rain, pitching the tent in the rain, and taking it down in the rain, this morning I finally had sun in the afternoon and tonight a clear sky. It is much needed as I experienced a total sense of humor breakdown yesterday about the rain. The fly of my tent still resembles a soaking wet mop.

Today was a record for animal sighting – apparently they like rain and lows of 38F. I saw buffalo, caribou, fox, moose, and owls. I felt a little akward as two owls serenaded each other 40ft on either side of my camp site – 3 is a crowd. The buffalo picture is blurry because I took it while rolling by them as I sure was not going to stop to take it.

Day 15: The Saga Continues (335 miles from Tok to Anchorage 29-Aug-13)

After bending my front wheel rim 3 days ago, it looked like the tire was holding air … until I woke up this morning, and it was completely flat. With much apprehension, I decided to press on 335 miles to Anchorage motorcycle dealership to replace the wheel. It was only a slow leak for the first half of the ride; but, for the second half, I stopped every 10 miles to check the increasingly rapid leak and had to fill it 8 times. A continuous leak is no fun when you only have two tires.

The Motorcycle Shop in Anchorage has incredible service. They are taking a front wheel off a new 2013 GSA on the showroom floor and putting it on my bike. In talking to others who needed new parts, I was stealing myself to wait 4-5 days for a wheel to be delivered. The shop even offered to drive my bag to the motel so I would not have to carry it.

On the plus side, I get to see glaciers up close a second time on the return ride to Tok.

Day 13: Breakdown (120 miles from Denali National Park to ???? 27-Aug-13)

The 135 mile gravel Denali Highway is the old enterance to the National Park. The scenary is absolutely breathtaking and by far the most beautiful drive so far in Alaska. You drive right through a range of snow capped peaks and wind through valleys with every shade of green, contrasted by bright red fireweed.

Perhaps I was enjoying the scenery too much as, at mile 53 of the road, my front tire was swallowed by a mammoth size hole. While the whole road was potholed, most holes can be floated over at 45-55mph. Most, apparently not all. I hit this one so hard that the wheel rim bent, making it impossible for me to get my tubeless tire to seal and inflate using a low power air compressor that I carry. I took the wheel off and attempted for 90min to straighten the rim caveman style, slamming it as hard as I could over and over with various shaped rocks. It would not budge.

I flagged down two hunters in a pickup, Dave and Neil, who were seasoned Vietnam vets and they drove me to a hunting lodge with make shift tire repair 12 miles away. While they could not bend back into shape my rim with a large bench press, they had a proper air compressor and were able to pop the tire bead back in place with a burst of air. Dave and Neil then drove me back to the bike, waited while I remounted the wheel, and escorted me 35 miles to another lodge where the rough gravel road ended and my tire would be safe from the savage potholes. The lodge had rooms and a perfect dimly lit bar.

I had dinner with them and a great conversation before they headed back to their hunting trailer. I am absolutely indebted to them and hope that karma delivers them two big caribou.

Day 12: Do You Smell a Pic-a-nic Booboo? (120 miles: Fairbanks to Denali National Park 26-Aug-13)

After getting the Dalton Highway cement-like-mud off our bikes by Dan the Man and his power washer, my new companion, Ofir, and I rode an easy 120 miles to Denali National Park. We arrived just in time to reserve a campsite and run to a park bus that left at 5pm for a 6hr tour – 3hrs in and 3hrs out the same way. It turned out to be a private tour as we were the only ones on the bus.

We were lucky to see 5 grizzley bears, including 2 cubs, and breathtaking views of the park and Mt. McKinley. We pitched our tents at 11:00pm and had a below freezing night. The cold was well worth it to see the bears.

Day 11: Pain then Pleasure (502 miles: Deadhorse to Fairbanks 25-Aug-13)

While the ride up to Deadhorse was painful, the return was a pleasure. There was a short dusting of snow but otherwise sunny. I would have made it back about 2hrs faster but accompanied a KLR with broken rear sprocket 150 miles, limping at below 50mph.

Here is a map of the Dalton Highway that I forgot to post – it is a long way.